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Quinta Vale de Lobos Douro
Peso da Regua, Portugal · Independent · Near Luxury
The family here bottle their own wine and olive oil under the name Mata Rapada, the oil pressed from a grove of centuries-old trees on the terraces. Harvest is worked every September the old way, beginning before the sun is up and finishing before it sets, and they still serve the lunch that fed pickers a hundred years ago. Between times it is a quiet bed and breakfast on the Folgosa slope, with an infinity pool pointed across the river.
About Quinta Vale de Lobos Douro
- The view from the terrace climbs the far bank to the Miradouro de Sao Leonardo da Galafura, and the Douro railway runs along the near side, so the historic steam train passes below the house.
- Five minutes down the road at Folgosa is DOC, Rui Paula's restaurant on the water and one of the best-known dining rooms in northern Portugal.
History
Quinta Vale de Lobos is the newer, smaller kind of Douro estate: a family project rather than a centuries-old Port house. It sits on a quiet hillside above Folgosa, in the municipality of Armamar, and trades as part of Casas & Bagos, which covers both the guesthouse and Mata Rapada, the label under which the family sells the wine from vines planted here and the olive oil pressed from a grove of centuries-old trees. Seasonal fruit grows between the terraces.
The harvest is worked every September by old methods, starting before sunrise and ending before sunset, and the family keep serving the same harvest lunch that was eaten here a hundred years ago. The house takes guests as a bed and breakfast with a garden, a sun terrace and an infinity pool looking over the river.
The setting
The house stands above Folgosa do Douro, on the south bank, with the river between it and the crag of Sao Leonardo da Galafura, the viewpoint the poet Miguel Torga famously wrote about. The Douro railway line runs along the bank below, close enough that the historic steam train passes in view, and the dam traffic breaks the reflection on the water. Five minutes away in Folgosa is DOC, Rui Paula's restaurant on the riverbank, and the Clube Nautico gives the closest access to the water. Peso da Regua, the Douro Museum and the valley's rail hub are about fifteen minutes downriver.
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